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401k Withdrawal Taxes and Penalties

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The 401k has grown in popularity over the last couple of decades because pensions have all but vanished; as a result, strategies around taking withdrawals and how to limit taxes and penalties are extremely prevalent.

In this article, we’re going to discuss the common penalties and taxes, and some of the strategies you can deploy to reduce them.

When a penalty typically applies

In almost all cases, a penalty applies if you withdraw from your account before the age of 59 ½. This is a 10% tax penalty. (Be advised: All withdrawals are subject to ordinary income taxes)

There is also a tax penalty if you fail to withdraw your Required Minimum Distribution (RMD). This applies to individuals over the age of 70 ½. This penalty, however, is 50% of the amount you should’ve withdrawn.

There are several exceptions, however.

Additionally, with the new Secure Act, there have changes to required minimum distributions, contributions, and others. For more information, click here.

When you are exempt from penalty

  • Withdrawal after 59 ½
  • Left employer after 55
  • Left employment in public safety after 50
  • Death distributions: your beneficiary is able to take distributions without penalty, regardless of their age
  • Totally and permanently disabled as defined by the IRS
  • 72t rule – Agree to withdraw the same amount for a fixed period of five years or until you turn 59 ½, whichever is greater.
  • Unreimbursed medical expenses: You’re allotted to withdraw the unreimbursed medical expenses minus 10% of your adjusted gross income
  • If you over contribute to your retirement plan for the year, you’re allowed to withdraw the excess without incurring a penalty.
  • IRS Tax Levies
  • Divorce: Depending on your state and how you settle the divorce with your former spouse, he/she can withdraw their respective portion without penalty
  • Roth conversion: you pay taxes on the conversion, but there is no 10% tax penalty

*All exceptions may have certain requirements that need to be met to qualify for the exemption. Please check with your 401k Plan Administrator and Financial Advisor regarding your personal situation.

Taxes

With regard to tax-saving strategies on 401k withdrawals, there are no short-cuts or exceptions like there was for the penalty section.

The best way to save money on taxes when taking distributions is to be strategic.

If the expense you are withdrawing for is something that can be planned ahead of time, determine your current tax bracket, figure out how much you’ll need at that future date, and withdraw slowly over time (how much you withdraw depends on how soon you’ll need it).

For example, if you are in the 22% tax bracket, are $10,000 from going into the next bracket, and need $40,000 for a down payment in 4 years, then withdraw just under $10k each year.

This assumes that your income and tax bracket will stay the same.

Another way to go about it is to utilize Roth conversions. If the intention is to minimize or eliminate your tax liability for retirement, do a Roth conversion every year. Just be mindful of where you are in your current bracket, so you aren’t bumped into the next one.

In this example, however, it can be counter-intuitive because in most cases, your tax bracket in retirement is lower than it was while you are working. This is commonsense, though. You’re making less, so logically you would be in a lower bracket.

With regard to taxes, it comes down to math. If you need to withdraw from your 401k, crunch the numbers and figure out how you can do that while limiting your tax exposure.

Related reading:

How to Save Money Effectively

Business Retirement Plan Guide

*Be advised – Securities offered through Securities America, Inc., Member FINRA/SIPC. Advisory services offered through Securities America Advisors, Inc. Securities America and its representatives do not provide tax or legal advice; therefore, it is important to coordinate with your tax or legal advisor regarding your specific situation. Please see the website for full disclosures: www.crgfinancialservices.com

Just Entering The Workforce? Let’s Talk About Retirement

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Can you remember the first day you worked and earned money? It might have been babysitting for your neighbor’s kids or a retail job at the local mall. As a kid, you might have imagined your parents going to work as something that just happened. You didn’t think of the financial ramifications or why going to work was important.

The older you got, the more likely you were to start seeing the value of money. Want to go to the movie with your friends? Want to purchase a new video game? All those things cost money.

So, you got a job and chances are, you weren’t the best saver. Money was for activities and fun.

But now that you’re entering the real workforce, there are lots of other things your money is going to such as rent, groceries, utilities, and retirement.

Retirement? But you just started working!

Even though you might be 40+ years from retiring, it’s never too early to start thinking about the day when you hang it up. Below, we have some tips and questions you should be asking yourself and those around you when it comes to your retirement.

Does Your Work Have Retirement Benefits?

While a pension was the norm for your grandparents and maybe even your parents, roughly just 54% of businesses these days offer pension plans for their employees. While that may seem like a solid number, the financial crisis of 2009 put a real dent in those numbers and they have been slow to recover.

While your work may not offer a pension, they may offer other benefits like a 401(k) or a 401(a). 401(a) plans are typically offered by government or nonprofit institutions and participation in these plans is often mandatory. Contributions are determined by the employer and can be either pre or post-tax.

401(k) plans are the opposite. They are more popular in the private sector, don’t have a contribution limit, and participation is not mandatory (although it might be).

Contribution is pretty simple, that you take X amount of money out of your paycheck and put it towards these plans each month. Money accrues and grows over time.

Let’s say you need the money, can you take it? Of course, it’s your money but it comes at a cost. The IRS will take a 20% as a penalty for early withdrawal. There are certain stipulations to withdraw money without the penalty, but they are never guaranteed.

Your Personal Savings

Hopefully, you aren’t living paycheck to paycheck and you’re putting away a certain amount of money each month. That could be saved for an emergency or saving up to make a big purchase.

It’s important to set up a personal savings plan because that money could be put into an individual retirement account (more on that later).

Budgeting is boring but highly necessary. Whatever you’re putting away each month should be treated like your 401(a) or 401(k). It should be untouchable. Make sure to take a certain percentage of your savings and plan to put that towards your retirement.

Individual Retirement Accounts

You might have seen this written as IRA and they are pretty common. The idea is that you yourself put money into a non-Roth or Roth IRA each year (up to $5,500 maximum) and that money is invested.

Many people seek out the advice of financial planners to help them plan a strategy for their IRA. The biggest difference between the two lies within the taxes.

Traditional IRAs mean your contributions are taxed in the year they are made. With a Roth IRA, you’re not going to be taxed when you start making withdrawals.

It’s important to note that not everyone is eligible to contribute to a Roth IRA and access can be restricted if you are using a 401(k).

The best thing to do is to meet with a financial planner and discuss your options. Ask your parents or others who might have a contact they can set you up with. They can help you do much more than just manage your retirement, but help manage your entire portfolio as well and give tips on sound money management policies.

Even though it may seem silly, it’s never too early to start thinking about your retirement.

Image source: Flickr.

Our New Low(er) Interest Rate Environment

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With the talk of interest rates and recession in the headlines, I figured it was a good time to check-in, and give a little update on interest rates and how lowering them can impact the economy, issuers, and investors.

Why is the FED cutting?

Basically, the FED is cutting to extend the current economic expansion we are in.

The fundamental reason behind that is lower interest rates encourage corporations and consumers to spend more.

For two reasons.

One, they get paid very little, in interest, to put their money in the bank. And two, they are able to borrow money at lower rates.

Current income needs

People who need income, retirees, for example, invest their money in income-producing securities. Often times, those securities are fixed income instruments, like bonds.

Bonds pay interest on a semi-annual basis. The higher the credit quality of the issuer (company or government entity) the lower the payout. The inverse is true for a low credit quality issuer.

It’s the ever-present adage in investing, more risk equals more potential for reward.

When interest rates continue to creep lower, then those people start to make different choices.

What people are doing now

People are getting paid less, in interest, to invest in high-quality debt issuers, so they’re getting riskier. Meaning, they are investing that money with low credit quality companies and/or government entities.

Their risk of not receiving interest payments and getting their principal (the initial investment) back goes up.

The FEDs tool kit

I’ve touched on this point a few times in the past, but I’m going to hammer it home.

The Federal Reserve, essentially, has two tools. Lowering interest rates and buying Treasuries. Lowering interest rates promotes spending and buying Treasuries provides liquidity.

Because they are lowering interest rates during an expansion (whether we are still in one or not is debatable, but let’s say we are for the sake of argument), they are, effectively, removing the number of tools they have available.

When the next recession comes, my fear is they won’t be able to do enough to help us out of it.

Corporate debt

Currently, the amount of corporate debt in the market is the largest in history. Additionally, the amount of debt that’s rated BBB is also the highest in history.

BBB is the last rung on the investment-grade scale. Investment grade is anything BBB and above.

That’s a problem for basically one reason. When a BBB rated issuer gets downgraded (to BB) they are classified as junk (high-yield). When that happens, they need to tighten up their debt and improve their balance sheet. This means less borrowing and less spending.

It’s a dynamic that feeds itself. The issuer is downgraded, they spend less, GDP gets weaker, more corporations follow suit, and here comes the recession.

Investors

Once the corporate (high-yield) debt pops, issuers of debt will have trouble meeting their obligations. They’ll start to default, and their investors will be left high and dry.

Conclusion

This post is not intended to scare people, it’s to inform.

One last point. Because interest rates have been so low for so long, there are economists/academics that think the lowering of interest rates won’t actually help.

Related Reading:

Interest Rates And Trade

What Is A Bond?

Why Do Interest Rates Matter?

 

 

*The opinions and forecasts expressed are those of the author, and may not actually come to pass. This information is subject to change at any time, based on market and other conditions and should not be construed as a recommendation of any specific security or investment plan. Past performance does not guarantee future results.

Why You Should Absolutely Retire With Gold

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Retirement planning is a complex process, and there isn’t one single, right strategy for guaranteed retirement success. Gold is an attractive asset to throw into the mix, and the closer you get to retirement, the more important having a hard asset with gold’s qualities will be.

There is a wide range of opinions when it comes to how much gold you should own by retirement. Between 5 to 20% of your portfolio could reasonably be invested in precious metals, depending on its size, your growth needs, your age, and how close to your retirement you are. There are some great reasons why gold should absolutely be part of your retirement savings, and if it isn’t already, find out where to buy gold online and make it part of your portfolio now.

High Liquidity

For an investment asset, it is highly liquid, possibly second only to cash. No commodity, besides maybe silver, enjoys the liquidity of gold. One of the problems with over-exposure to stocks or real estate is trying to sell it. If the market is bad, you may have to wait a long time to sell or you may be forced to sell at a steep loss. By comparison, gold is as close to money as you can get without taking on the risk of paper currency. There’s always a market for bullion.

Low-Risk Funds

The closer you get to retirement, the lower your risk tolerance. Stocks are some of the highest-risk investments you can get. They provide the highest growth rates, but could correct or crash at any time. When you want to retire, you need your assets to be worth what you were planning them to be worth. Gold provides stability of value, allowing you to draw on your assets when you need them.

Protect Against Inflation

If low-risk and high liquidity are important, why not keep your retirement savings in cash? Inflation will erode the purchasing power of your savings. Your retirement could last 20-30 years or even longer. At an average 2% inflation per year, your savings would lose 54% of their purchasing power over 20 years.

Gold prices rise against inflation. Investors regularly use the metal to avoid the erosion of value of paper currency, without taking on the risks of the stock market.

Leave an Inheritance

Many parents don’t just want to retire comfortably, they also want to leave something to their children and grandchildren. An inheritance may not be something you want to risk on the stock markets or committed in bonds, especially since they will have to pay an inheritance tax, even if you bought the investments as part of a retirement savings plan.

Leaving gold coins allows your family to decide what’s best for them. When you inherit gold, you may want to keep it or sell it, depending on whether you:

  • Already have retirement savings and want to keep bullion
  • Want to re-invest the money in stocks and more diverse investments
  • Use the proceeds to become debt-free
  • Use the proceeds to create an emergency fund

Gold coins and bars can help you retire comfortably and confidently. Prepare today with bullion investments.

Different Ways To Think About Money

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Your money philosophy and how you think about your finances make a big difference in the decisions you make.

Whether you’re just starting your financial journey or you’re well into it, it’s a good idea to take a step back and define that philosophy.

Money is a tool

Sure, there are monetary goals you would like to achieve. For example, $1 million nest egg has long been touted as the number you need to hit for a comfortable retirement, but hitting, somewhat, arbitrary numbers aren’t everything.

Money is a tool. If used properly, you really can achieve financial success. Taking the money you’ve saved and putting it to work for you is a very simple, yet effective way to use it.

Another monetary tool is a credit card. Credit cards offer a variety of reward programs, like travel miles, cashback, among others. Additionally, it enables you to build and strengthen your credit report.

It is important, however, that if you are using a credit card, you must do so responsibly. Accumulating credit card debt can really set you back, financially.

Related reading: A Deep Dive Into Credit Cards

Focus on the solution, not the problem

Often times, we focus too much on the issues with our finances. I have too much debt, I have too little saved for retirement, or my expenses are killing my ability to save.

Instead of focusing on the problem, focus on what can be done to fix it.

If you have too much debt, develop a plan to pay it down. If your retirement savings are low, figure out how you can increase your savings rate. Expenses hurting your ability to save, cut your expenses.

“Whatever the problem, be part of the solution. Don’t just sit around raising questions and pointing out obstacles.” Tina Fey

Related reading: How To Cut Spending

Money using emotional bandwidth

It is true that money is relatively important. I say relatively to try and redirect to my first point when I mentioned that money is to be used as a tool.

It affords you food to eat, clothes to wear, and a place to live, among other things. If your basic needs are met and future goals are being worked towards, you have to try and stop worrying that you don’t have enough.

This is extremely challenging to do because we, as a society, are so fixated on money and material items that money can buy. It also doesn’t help that comparing ourselves to others is essentially baked into our DNA.

Believe me, I know that learning to stop worrying is incredibly difficult, but retraining your brain to view your finances differently can be extremely liberating.

Related reading: The Psychology Of Money

Think long-term

To be a successful investor or to be able to financially plan effectively, you have to think long term.

The market is going to have its ups and downs. As an investor, it’s important to ride out those down periods and continue to invest. If you have 15+ years until you need that money, you should be able to recoup your losses.

With regard to saving, I typically take the “bucket” approach. I have three buckets, short-term, medium-term, and long-term. Be advised: the following is how I define these time horizons.

  • The short-term bucket is for items under 5 years away. For example, when I want certain debts paid off or a down payment for a house.
  • Medium-term is anything 5-15 years away. The main one in this category is my son’s college savings.
  • Long-term is retirement savings, exclusively.

Related reading: How To Make Long-Term Investing Decisions

Buying experiences versus buying stuff

Money to a certain extent can buy happiness. As long as it’s being spent on experiences rather than stuff.

Memories with family and friends, visiting different destinations and attractions are the things we’ll cherish most.

Stuff breaks and toys are outgrown. What people won’t forget, however, is the time you spent with them.

Make that a priority. I know, as a fairly new parent (my son is almost 2), that I am constantly aware of how finite time is and that I need to make the most of those moments I spend with him.

The way you think about money pulls weight in how you use it. When creating a financial plan, I would prioritize figuring that out. How you think can lead to how you act.

The Questions You Need To Ask Yourself

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Questions are a fantastic way to understand things better. They are vitally important in our everyday lives.

One area where I think they are underutilized is personal finance.

You NEED to ask yourself questions on the regular so you can discern if you are doing the right things and taking the correct steps for YOU.

In the following article, we’re going to explore the various questions you need to ask yourself in order to be financially effective.

What is my goal with money?

This is a fairly general question, so we’ll break it down into three buckets: short term, medium-term, and long term.

  • Short-term (Under 2 years) – If you are saving for a short-term goal, what is it? A vacation? Down payment on a house? No matter the goal, that money will be used soon so the best place for it is in a savings account.
  • Medium-term (2-10 years) – This could be anything from a down payment for a house to saving for your kids’ college education. What you do in the interim depends on when you’ll need it and the goal you are saving for. If it’s less than 5 years, I’d still recommend a savings account or short-term bonds. Something that can earn you a little interest, but is still relatively safe. That 5-10 year period depends on the goal. If there’s a particular dollar amount you need to it (down payment, for instance) I’d go no more than moderately aggressive. You want to earn a little, but you don’t want that saved amount to go under what you need.
  • Long-term (10+ years) – Most often, a goal that’s over 10 years away can be invested in the stock market, though the percentage of your assets that’s actually in the market depends on the risks you are willing to take and when you need to access those funds.

Related reading: Financial planning for all ages

How much am I willing to lose before I sell?

I almost always propose this question to new clients because it gives me a good understanding of their risk tolerance.

If they are only comfortable with losing 10 percent of their portfolio, they’ll be invested pretty conservatively.

On the other hand, if they can tolerate a 50 percent drawdown and not bat an eye, then we can “put the pedal to the floor”, excuse the expression.

Determine how much of a loss you can stomach and that will give you a good idea of how to allocate your assets.

Related reading: Are you taking on too much investment risk?

How long will it take to adjust my allocations?

Questions regarding asset allocation, typically, pertain to risk and time horizon. For example, if you start saving for retirement when you’re 25, the majority of your portfolio will be in equities (stocks).

This allocation, generally speaking, is suitable for you for a couple of decades. At which point, you’ll probably (again, speaking generally) want to shift a little more of your portfolio to bonds.

Your allocation will, and should, shift over time, and once you get within a few years of your goal, the primary objective of your portfolio becomes capital preservation.

Related reading: Why asset allocation matters

Are my actions suitable for my current financial situation?

Financial situation takes everything into consideration (income, debt, spending, savings, etc.) Actions can be anything related to those items.

Specifically what I’m talking about is how much you are saving, how much you are spending, and how much $ you’ve dedicated to paying down debt.

If you have a sizeable amount of debt and not a whole lot of savings, it’s time to cut your spending. Conversely, if you’ve paid down your debt and are ahead of the game with your savings, it would be alright if you loosened up a little and enjoy yourself.

Like everything in life, your personal finances are a delicate balancing act, and when you ask questions, you can figure out how to shift your priorities.

How is my money being spent?

Kind of related to the last point. Tracking your spending to find out exactly where all of your dollars are going is an important step.

Another recommendation I usually make is to create a financial playbook. Here’s a brief outline of how I create a financial playbook:

  1. Big picture – List all assets and liabilities. How much you have saved and how much debt you have.
  2. List your necessary expenses – These are things that you have to pay (rent, utilities, transportation, food, minimum debt payments, etc.)
  3. List your monthly income
  4. Total up your monthly necessary expenses and your monthly income and see how much you have leftover. What’s leftover will help you discern what to do with it.
  5. I would list another line item for “fun,” though I would keep it to a minimum.
  6. What’s left after fun should be saved and used on debt.

Related reading: How to cut your spending

Conclusion

As I said in the beginning, questions help us understand the world, and ourselves, better.

Having a better grasp on why and when we make certain changes or do certain things is a must if we are to be more effective in managing our finances.

Your Wealth: What You Shouldn’t Do

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Establish an emergency fund, pay down debt, save for retirement, and grow your wealth! Much of your financial life is focused on the things you should do.

However, what I think to be more important are the things you shouldn’t do!

Educational Debt

There’s been a lot of literature/news over the last few years about how much of a problem student loan debt is. As of 2018, total student loan debt was $1.47 trillion. With a T! (Source)

That said, here are some things you should avoid.

  • Taking on too much – Some degrees/professions require a lot of schooling, which can lead to large amounts of student loan debt. And I don’t mean to speak ill of any degrees/professions, but if your desired career requires a “basic” 4-year degree, it’s probably best to find an in-state university to cut costs. Better yet, start at a local 2-year university or tech school until your Gen. Eds. are complete, then transfer.
  • Not having a plan for after – I think this is a common fear for Millennials and Gen Z, but you have so much time to figure things out. Don’t just go to college to get a degree. If you need time, take time. Once you figure out what you want, determine what you need to do to get there.
  • Not researching options – There are SO many student loan options. Depending on what type of loan you choose (private or public), you could have a wide range of payback methodologies. I wrote about student loan options and payback options in two previous posts. Check them out!

Credit cards

There are two BIG problems with credit cards. People who use them irresponsibly and people who don’t use them at all.

  • Using irresponsibly – This one pretty much speaks for itself. This pertains to people who spend way more than they ought to. A good rule of thumb is to only buy something using a credit card if you have the funds readily available to pay the balance off. Don’t have the money, don’t put it on the card. Doing so will cost you in interest and can really set you back.
  • Not using at all – Better than the first point, but still not great. Using a credit card can help your financial situation if you use it correctly. Most of them have rewards of some sort. It’s another credit account on your report. Charging and paying off right away establishes a good payment history. All good things for your credit score.

No emergency fund

Establishing an emergency fund is Step 1. If you don’t have money set aside for unexpected expenses, you’ll have to charge it. This leads to the point above about irresponsible use.

Save $1,000 for emergencies, turn your attention to high-interest debt (credit cards), and then shift your focus back to your emergency fund once that debt is paid off.

Spending

  • Paying bills late – Not paying your bills on time, especially ones shown on your credit report is a big mistake. The #1 factor in calculating your credit score is payment history. Paying ONE bill late will knock your score down. Just one. Don’t do it.
  • Spending too much – (See irresponsible credit card use) This is especially harmful if you frivolously spend BEFORE taking care of important “budget items”. Things like saving, debt payments, and bills.
  • Being too frugal – Though frugality is helpful in building wealth, it can also hurt you. There comes a point when you are too frugal. A vital life skill is doing things in moderation. If you pinch pennies and forego rewarding yourself, you run the risk of breaking the bank on a “bender”.

Investing

  • Waiting – I cannot stress enough the importance of investing early. What helps you make the most of your retirement savings is compound interest. The more time you have to invest, the more compound interest works in your favor.
  • Panic selling – This is a timely point since the market dropped almost 5 percent in the last week. Selling out of fear is always bad. More often than not, when you “panic sell,” you’ve already experienced the majority of the drawdown. Now, this depends on your particular situation, but it behooves you to stay invested during that period.
  • Using generalities when setting up an investment plan – Your investment plan needs to reflect your goals, risk tolerance, time horizon, and behavior. Using generalities is good for someone who writes about this stuff, but it’s not good for YOU. Your plan has to be tailored to YOU.

Life and Wealth

  • Sticking with a job you hate – Sometimes money and comfort makes us do things we don’t want to do. Being unhappy at your job is not worth it. It’s important, however, to thoroughly think through this decision. Quitting is tough, but if your family counts on you for income, you need to have a plan in place before you jump ship.
  • Comparing yourself to others – I’m going to encourage you to develop a new mindset because society taught us that wealth looks like fancy cars and big houses. I want you to think about stealth wealth. It’s probably my most favorite phrase/term. Someone with stealth wealth lives within their means. They live in a modest home, drive a car for transportation only, but saves more than the average person. They don’t “look” wealthy, but their retirement account says otherwise.

Further reading:

What it takes to be a successful investor

How to pay off credit card debt

Creating a financial plan you can stick to

Financial Planning For All Ages

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Don’t you hate it when you Google financial planning tips, and it spits out articles that don’t apply to you? This could be because you’re a different age than the article is directed towards or you’re in a different position.

Well, look no further. I’ve created a rough outline of how you can plan, regardless of your age or situation.

But I’ll be honest with you, a lot of this article will link to resources or previous articles that explain these topics in more detail, but I wanted to create a rough outline of how people in different age groups can plan.

Twenties

Ideally, you want to get a budget started, but nobody likes doing that. Instead, give your money a job. Figure out when you would like to have your debt paid off, then do the math to determine how much per month you need to pay.

List that payment plus housing, transportation, food, and other bills. That total tells you how much MUST go out, everything else is extra to do what you please.

In terms of saving for retirement, you have a lot of time to put money away, but if you start sooner, you’ll have to save less later. 10% of your salary is a good goal. If you can’t get there just yet, save what you can, but try to incrementally increase it over time.

Investment allocation here, as well as in your thirties and forties, should primarily be stocks. Not 100%, but definitely the majority of what you own.

Thirties

The financial plan in your thirties is similar to the one in your twenties. Pay down debt and save for retirement. However, at this point, you probably have more assets and you may have some children as well.

With the cost of tuition constantly rising, saving for their future education costs is important. The 529 is the most popular, and probably the best vehicle available to do just that. (Be advised: 529 plans do involve risk so please talk to your financial advisor prior to investing)

With more assets and children, comes more insurance. Make sure your property and belongings are adequately protected. Additionally, if your children depend on your income for support, life insurance and disability insurance are a must!

Fourties

Same story, different decade. Pay down (off) debt, save for retirement, and make sure you have adequate insurance. (Honestly, the save more, pay down debt, and have insurance is a great catch-all financial plan).

At this point, however, your retirement plans should become more detailed and concrete. Through your twenties and thirties, retirement planning essentially was just saving for retirement.

Now you should think about where you live and what you’ll do. You should also calculate if you’re on track and increase your savings if you’re behind.

Fifties

Hopefully, by the end of this decade, your debt will be mostly paid off, you have a good idea of what retirement will look like, and you’ve determined what needs to be done (if anything) for you to hit your target number.

As you age through your fifties, you should start thinking about adjusting your investment allocation. You don’t have as much time to gain back what you lose during a down market.

Reallocating to a 60/40 or 50/50 (stocks/bonds), depending upon your risk appetite, is a good way to reduce your risk and still participate in a bull market.

Sixties

Where you are at this stage in life depends on a few factors. Have you saved enough to live comfortably in retirement? Do you enjoy what you do? Are you healthy? Plans for Social Security?

If you haven’t saved enough, then you’ll probably have to work a little longer so you can save more. If you like what you do, then why not continue if you are able? If you don’t, consider a career change or (if you’ve saved enough) volunteering for a cause that’s meaningful to you.

If you are healthy, I recommend staying active and social as long as you can. Activity and a healthy social life are two of the three important variables for a fulfilling retirement.

Social Security and when to receive it is a huge decision. Obviously, I’m going to recommend waiting as long as you can so you receive a higher monthly benefit, but there are other things to consider.

Are you healthy? What’s your family history like? Do you have adequate savings/retirement income from other sources?

Health and family history help determine longevity. Poor health and/or poor family history may give you a reason to start receiving earlier.

There are calculators out the web (like this one here) that can help you discern what’s the best strategy for you. That’s to say, how do you optimize your Social Security and other retirement income so you receive the most possible?

Seventies

We’re living longer, healthier lives now, and down the road, the retirement age will probably make its way into the seventies.

If you have to work for the income, you’re not alone. As of 2017, the percentage of the population that are 70 or older and still working was 19%. Up from 11% in 1994. (Source)

My recommendation. Develop an income strategy that will a) afford you to live a somewhat comfortable lifestyle (obviously, cutbacks are necessary if money is tight) and b) help your savings last as long as possible.

There are a variety of calculators out there to help figure this out.

Conclusion

Financial planning is tough. As I said in the beginning, not many like to budget, so it’s important to give your money a job. $100 goes towards emergency savings, $1,000 to retirement, and $250 for debt repayment.

Do this, along with several of the other items I listed (as well as the ones linked below) and you’ll do just fine.

Helpful articles and resources:

Choosing A Retirement Plan For Your Business

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What type of retirement plan to use is a big question for employers. Not only do they want to do what’s right for the business, but they also want to do what’s best for their employees and future employees.

In the following article, we’ll break down three of the most popular options for employer-sponsored retirement plans.

What are your options?

If you’re an individual, your options are pretty straight forward. Outside of your employer-based plan, you can either contribute to a Roth IRA or a Traditional IRA.

As a business, however, you have many other options. For organizations that are for-profit and not a government body, you the SEP IRA, SIMPLE IRA, and the 401(k).

More than likely, you’re most familiar with the 401(k). We’ll explore each of these below.

SEP IRA

Stands for Simplified Employee Pension Individual Retirement Account.

This retirement account is typically used with one-man shops or small businesses with a couple of employees.

The reason is the money contributed to the employee’s accounts can only come from the business. Employees are not eligible to contribute to their SEP account.

Here the characteristics of a SEP IRA:

  • Must contribute the same percentage of salary for each employee
  • Don’t need to contribute every year
  • Maximum contribution is $54,000 per year or 25% of annual salary, whichever is less
  • Contributions are deductible as a business expense for the entity
  • Money grows tax-deferred
  • When funds are withdrawn, they are taxed as ordinary income
  • Rules similar to a Traditional IRA
    • Withdrawals prior to 59 ½ unless used for a qualified purpose (qualified meaning exempt from the penalty, which is 10%)
    • Required Minimum Distributions must begin at 70 ½

SIMPLE IRA

Stands for Savings Incentive Match for Employee Individual Retirement Account.

Designed for small businesses, and has an employee limit of 100. If you go over 100 employees, you need to switch to a 401(k).

The SEP and SIMPLE (compared to the 401(k)) are inexpensive to set up and administer, and may be a great option for small businesses that want to offer a plan for their employees, but don’t want to pay the costs associated with a 401(k).

Here are the characteristics of a SIMPLE IRA:

  • Contribution limit of $13,000. A catch-up contribution of $3,000 for those 50 or older
  • Employees can contribute to their own plan (unlike the SEP)
  • Employers match contributions
    • Match up to 3% of employee’s contribution (doesn’t have to contribute if the employee doesn’t contribute).
    • Contribute a flat 2% whether or not the employee contributes.
  • Similar to the last plan, withdrawals before 59 ½ are penalized.
  • Also similar to the last plan, distributions must begin at 70 ½
  • There’s a weird quirk with the Simple, as well. If you withdraw funds earlier than 2 years after your first contribution, you’re penalized 25%.

401(k)

The 401(k). The plan that most people are familiar with, and if you have an employer-sponsored plan, it’s more than likely, this one.

The 401(k) gained popularity as companies switched from defined benefit plans (pensions) to defined contribution, where it became the responsibility of the employee to save for retirement instead of the employer.

Here are the characteristics of the 401(k):

  • Contribution limit is $19,000 with a catch-up of $6,000 for people 50 or older.
  • Total contribution limit, including employer contributions, is $54,000.
  • The 401(k) is an expensive plan to set up and administer, especially when compared to the previous two plans.
  • Like the previous two plans, the 401(k) penalizes you if you withdraw before 59 ½ unless your reason for withdrawal qualifies for an exemption. And you must begin withdrawing funds when you turn 70 ½.
  • With this plan, however, you are able to take a loan out against your savings. This loan has to be paid back, usually in the form of increased monthly contributions.
    • If you are let go from your job while you have a loan on the plan, you will be forced to pay it back with 60 days. If you don’t you’ll be taxed on the amount, and if you’re under 59 ½, you’ll be penalized 10%.
  • This type of plan is designed for larger employers, though there is no maximum or minimum on how many employees you can have.
    • They have a type of 401(k) called the solo 401(k). It has all the same rules and quirks as the standard 401(k), but it’s designed for someone who works by themselves OR their only employee is a spouse.

How to choose

Unfortunately, I can’t say which plan is the best. Each one has its own unique advantages and disadvantages.

When deciding which plan is best for you and your business, there are a few things I would take into consideration.

  1. Number of employees – some plans disqualify you if you have too many employees.
  2. Matching ability – Most 401(k) plans match up to 6%. The SIMPLE requires you to match up to 3% or contribute a flat 2% for every employee.
  3. Cost – Some plans are less expensive to set up and service than others. In terms of the 401(k), the more participants and assets you have in the plan, the less expensive (per user) it becomes.
  4. Attracting talent – More and more employers are using benefits packages to attract employees rather than salary, in what’s called all-in compensation. If you want to get qualified candidates in the door, you have to offer good benefits.

Conclusion

It should be known that whatever you decide, it’s not set in stone. If you set up a SIMPLE and you need to hire more employees than you anticipated, you can set up a 401(k). The SIMPLE will have to stay in place, and you’d just have current and new employees contribute to the 401(k).

For more information on all of these plans and others, read this article here.

Be advised: The numbers and figures listed in this article are for 2019. Contribution limits tend to change over time. Please review the IRS website for up to date information.

Why I Love The Roth IRA

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The Roth IRA started in 1997 and it changed the retirement savings game.

It’s probably my most recommended retirement savings vehicle, other than your employer-sponsored plan of course. You have to get that match!

The Roth IRA can be your primary retirement account or a nice complement to a work-based plan.

Here’s why I love the Roth IRA.

Tax-free withdrawals! That’s right, if you save for retirement using the Roth IRA, you get to take that tax-deferred (don’t pay taxes while money grows) savings out of your account without paying taxes.

While you’re working, you generally have two options (besides contributing to your 401k or Simple IRA) do I contribute to a Roth IRA or a Traditional IRA? The amount of money you make plays a little bit of a factor, as the Roth IRA has an income limit ($137,000 – single, $203,000 – married filing jointly).

However, a back-door contribution is available. That’s where you make a contribution to a traditional IRA and roll the money from there into a Roth IRA. Be advised: You’ll be taxed at the time of the rollover.

That aside, contributions to a traditional IRA are tax-deductible (an income limit applies here). Conversely, contributions to a Roth IRA are not tax deductible.

Here’s why I like to recommend the Roth. I’d save for retirement, without getting that tax-deduction and pay $0 taxes upon withdrawal in retirement. At that point in time, your ability to earn more money is either dramatically reduced or gone completely.

It’s at this point when you need that money the most. I’d rather pay for it now and benefit from it later.

With all that said, I suppose I should list all the characteristics of a Roth IRA.

  • For 2019, the contribution limit is $6,000. If you are 50 or older, you can contribute an extra $1,000. Be advised: these contributions limits change often. Consult the IRS website for up to date information.
  • Because the money in the account was already taxed, there are no mandatory withdrawals. Uncle Sam got his cut already so you can let that baby grow for as long as you want.
  • If you withdraw before 59 1/2, you’ll pay a 10% tax penalty
  • There are exceptions to this penalty, however.
    • Death
    • Disability
    • Use up to 10% on your first home purchase
    • Pay for higher education
    • Medical costs are more than 7.5% of your AGI
    • Can pay health insurance premiums if you’re unemployed
    • The IRS has a tax levy against you
  • You can make contributions for the prior “tax” year up to April 15th.
  • If you withdraw your savings within 5 years of your first contribution, you’ll pay some taxes on your withdrawal.
    • Note: The 5-year clock starts ticking on January 1st of the year you made your first contribution

Conclusion

As I said, the Roth IRA is a great savings vehicle. Whether you use it on its own or use it as a complement to an employer-sponsored plan, it has a place in everybody’s retirement plan.

One last thing I want to mention. My reasoning behind why I recommend the Roth IRA so often is my personal belief. Please use your situation and your money/retirement philosophy when making this decision. It also pays to talk to a professional to see what they’re thoughts are, as well.