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Taxes for Life: Even in Retirement You Need These 5 Hacks for Retirement Tax Planning

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Retirement should be a time to relax and enjoy the fruits of your labor, but tax planning doesn’t end when your career does. To make sure your golden years are truly golden, here are five essential hacks for retirement tax planning. By staying proactive and informed, you can minimize your tax burden and maximize your income.

Understand Taxable Income in Retirement

One of the first steps in retirement tax planning is understanding what counts as taxable income. Social Security benefits, pension payments, and withdrawals from traditional IRAs or 401(k) plans are all subject to taxes. Knowing how each source of income is taxed will help you create a strategy to keep your tax bill as low as possible. Remember, not all income is treated equally, and being aware of these differences is crucial for effective planning.

Take Advantage of Tax-Deferred Accounts

Tax-deferred accounts like traditional IRAs and 401(k)s offer a great way to reduce your taxable income now and defer taxes until you start making withdrawals in retirement. This strategy can significantly lower your tax liability during your working years. Once you retire, you’ll need to be strategic about how and when you withdraw from these accounts to minimize taxes. Proper planning can help you stretch your retirement savings further.

Utilize Roth Accounts for Tax-Free Withdrawals

Roth IRAs and Roth 401(k)s are powerful tools in retirement tax planning because withdrawals from these accounts are tax-free. By contributing to these accounts during your working years, you can build a source of income that won’t increase your tax bill in retirement. This can be particularly beneficial if you expect to be in a higher tax bracket when you retire. Diversifying your retirement savings between traditional and Roth accounts can provide more flexibility in managing your tax burden.

Consider Health Savings Accounts (HSAs)

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Health Savings Accounts (HSAs) are another excellent tool for retirement tax planning. Contributions to an HSA are tax-deductible, and withdrawals for qualified medical expenses are tax-free. As healthcare costs can be significant in retirement, an HSA can be a valuable resource for covering these expenses without additional tax implications. Additionally, after age 65, withdrawals for non-medical expenses are taxed as regular income, similar to traditional IRAs, offering more flexibility in how you use the funds.

Plan for Required Minimum Distributions (RMDs)

Once you turn 73, you’ll need to start taking Required Minimum Distributions (RMDs) from your tax-deferred retirement accounts. Failing to take these distributions can result in hefty penalties, so it’s crucial to plan for them in advance. Understanding how RMDs impact your overall tax situation will help you make informed decisions about your withdrawals. Proper planning can ensure you meet the requirements without unnecessarily increasing your tax liability.

Preparing for a Tax-Savvy Retirement

Retirement tax planning might seem daunting, but with the right strategies, you can make the most of your retirement savings and reduce your tax burden. By understanding your taxable income, utilizing tax-deferred and tax-free accounts, considering HSAs, and planning for RMDs, you can create a comprehensive plan that supports a financially secure retirement. Stay informed, seek professional advice when needed, and enjoy your retirement years with peace of mind.

What Are The Major Downsides to Using a Roth IRA?

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downsides to using a Roth IRA

When people look at opening an individual retirement account (IRA), it isn’t uncommon to see recommendations directing them toward the Roth version. While Roth IRAs certainly have plenty of benefits, that doesn’t mean they are the best fit for everyone. After all, they are not drawback-free. If you’re considering a Roth IRA, here’s what you need to know about the downsides of using one.

Low Contribution Limit

For 2021, the IRA contribution limit is $6,000, though individuals age 50 and over can add another $1,000 to that. While that can feel like a substantial sum, it may not be enough to fully fund a retirement, depending on when you began.

Instead, many people with Roth IRAs may also need to set money aside elsewhere. If they are employed, a 401(k) or similar option through an employer could be a smart choice, particularly if they are offering a match.

For anyone who doesn’t have access to an employer-sponsored account, there are other options available. Self-employed individuals may be eligible for a solo 401(k), giving them a solid alternative. Using a traditional brokerage account could also work, though it doesn’t have the tax benefits that you get with formal retirement savings.

Income Limits

Unlike a traditional IRA, your modified adjusted gross income (MAGI) has to fall within a certain limit to contribute to a Roth IRA. The limit that applies to a Roth IRA varies depending on the account holder’s tax filing status.

The contribution limit also has three phrases. If a person’s MAGI falls below a certain point, they can contribute the full amount allowable during the tax year.

MAGIs that sit above that initial cutoff but below a second one will see their maximum allowable contribution lower. If a person’s MAGI crosses an upper threshold, they are not allowed to contribute to a Roth IRA.

Here is an overview of the income phase-out ranges based on tax filing status:

Tax Filing Status MAGI Contribution Limit
Single / Head of Household Under $125,000 Up to Annual Maximum
  $125,000 to $139,999 Phasing Out
  $140,000+ Ineligible
Married Filing Jointly Under $198,000 Up to Annual Maximum
  $198,000 to $207,999 Phasing Out
  $208,000+ Ineligible
Married Filing Separately Under $10,000 Phasing Out
  $10,000+ Ineligible

For individuals with pre-existing Roth IRAs who become ineligible to contribute in a subsequent year, they don’t lose access to that retirement account. Instead, they simply can’t add contributions while their income exceeds the limits. If their income declines in a subsequent year, they can begin contributing once again.

It’s also important to note that MAGI limits don’t apply if you’re rolling a traditional IRA into a Roth. However, you do have to follow all of the rollover rules, some of which are relatively complex.

Additionally, it’s crucial to understand that the limits are subject to change each year. Annually, the IRS reviews both the income and contribution limits to determine if adjustments are necessary. Often, when those occur, the numbers shift upward, not down. However, the changes do tend to be pretty small in the grand scheme of things.

Set Up Falls on You

With employer-sponsored retirement accounts, contributing is fairly simple. Your employer has made most of the difficult choices, takes care of your enrollment, and even makes sure that contributions come right out of your paycheck.

Unlike an employer-sponsored retirement account, you have to set up your own Roth IRA. Along with choosing the bank or broker that will hold your account, you’ll need to determine when you’ll contribute. The money won’t come straight out of your paycheck. Instead, you’ll have to schedule transfers to fund the Roth IRA.

In many cases, even a Roth IRA is reasonably automated once you get it set up. However, the initial legwork can be time-consuming, particularly if you have to spend a lot of time exploring banks and brokers to find the right option.

No Upfront Tax Deduction

When a Roth IRA, you contribute after-tax dollars. That means you don’t receive a tax deduction for setting money aside for retirement during the tax year the contributions are made. Instead, you can take distributions once you reach retirement age tax-free.

Essentially, it’s the opposite arrangement you find in a traditional IRA. With traditional IRAs, there is an upfront tax deduction. However, distributions are taxed.

Technically, not everyone views the Roth IRA as a drawback. However, it doesn’t mean that you have to spend more of your money on taxes now. As a result, you may have less in your budget to spend or save, which could be troublesome for some people.

Additionally, depending on your financial situation, getting the tax break later instead of upfront may not yield the biggest benefit. If your income is higher during your earning years than it will be during retirement, you could end up spending more in taxes over the course of your life by using a Roth IRA.

The Five-Year Rule

When you hit the minimum age for withdrawals with most retirement accounts, you don’t have to worry about any penalties. However, Roth IRAs are subject to the five-year rule. That means if your first contribution to your Roth IRA wasn’t at least five years ago when you being making retirement withdrawals at age 59 ½ or older, earnings you receive as distributions could be subject to taxes.

For many people who begin contributing to a Roth IRA well before retirement age, this isn’t usually an issue. However, if you didn’t open a Roth IRA until after you were 54 ½ years old or older, you’ll have to wait past age 59 ½ to make tax-free earnings withdrawals.

Whether that is a problem depends on your financial situation. Some people work beyond age 59 ½ or have other sources of funds, so they don’t necessarily need the Roth IRA income right away. As a result, waiting until they can make tax-free withdrawals isn’t automatically an issue. Instead, it just requires awareness and planning.

For others, the delay could be more problematic. As a result, anyone who is considering opening a new IRA later in life should determine if the five-year rule applies to them. If so, they should make sure that the impact isn’t an issue and, if it could be, potentially explore other retirement account options.

Can you think of any other downsides of using a Roth IRA? Do you think the benefits outweigh the drawbacks? Share your thoughts in the comments below.

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Saving Money Isn’t Work: It’s a Mindset Shift

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When I’ve given speeches at community groups, I’m often surprised to hear, “This sounds like a lot of work.”

It’s hard to know what to say to this. Do I say:

–       “But it’s worth it.”

–       “Not really”

or even,

–       “Maybe a little work, but it focuses your mind on saving instead of spending”

None of these approach the truth. Saving money isn’t easy or hard….it’s a complete mindset change.

 

Finding Opportunity Where You Don’t Expect

 

As I wrote in Can’t Save? Write it Out, Bitches!, often, we don’t look hard enough for opportunities. I took a quick trip to the store yesterday for bread and ketchup to work on my famous sloppy joes (well, not yet famous, but I’ve not given up). Without thinking, I jumped in the car and paid full-on retail for both of these items.

In today’s world, with my iPad sitting on the counter, it wouldn’t have been hard to find a coupon. In fact, a look this morning (that took less than three minutes) found me $.50 off the bread I purchased and $.25 off the ketchup. Lots of savings? No, but by changing my mindset and doing this all the time, I can find tons of opportunities, no matter where I am.

 

–       Saving on insurance with comparison sites

–       Saving on airfare and hotels with online discounters

–       Saving on food with Tesco vouchers

–       Saving on restaurants with newspaper coupons

 

It’s easy to find ways to save, but instead of just grabbing the keys and leaving home, you need to take a few minutes.

 

It isn’t frugal as much as it’s smart

 

I’ll be the first to tell you that I have no interest in saving $.75 on bread and ketchup. However, if it’s the same ketchup and bread, the same hotel room, the same airline, and I don’t have to take significant time to find the deal…that’s not about saving $.75. It’s about learning to treat money with respect.

So, the next time you grab the keys to head to the store, think for a moment. Could I look for deals online? Could I find aggregator sites that would help me get this done better/cheaper/quicker (or all three at the same time?). Could I be saving daily with discount codes, coupons and deals for the same stuff I was going to buy anyway? Better yet, could this be the Roth IRA contribution you weren’t able to make this year because you “didn’t have any money?”

Photo: Saad Faruque

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Three Steps to an Iron-Clad Protection Plan

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“No one knows the day or the hour…”

Unfortunately, that phrase is so true.  We here in the O.G. house, along with the whole FFA crew, join those across the world in thinking about (dare I say ‘praying for’) those impacted by the terrorism in Boston, the terrible storms in the Midwest, and the explosion in Texas.  The phrase “when it rains, it pours” comes to mind.

These recent events have encouraged me–nay, they’ve compelled me, to write another bit about protection planning.  There are three crucial pieces to a well-designed protection plan and collectively, they are the single most important part of your overall financial plan.  I don’t care what funds you use, what your company 401(k) match is, or even how many pre-IPO shares of Google you own – without an adequate protection plan in place, you have nothing.

Are you worried about your protection strategy? Here are three steps to an iron-clad protection plan.

 

Step 1:  Forget the 6 months notion – head right to 12 months of cash

 

Many financial professionals suggest three to six months worth of expenses in a cash reserve position.  That’s baloney.  If you were sick or injured, would you want to be counting backwards from 90 until you run out of money?  I didn’t think so.  Skip three months and six and head right to 12 months of lifestyle-sustaining cash reserve, especially if you work for yourself or in an unstable industry…and what industry ISN’T unstable these days?  This will take some work to figure out, because it’s not just your annual salary, but rather what you need to sustain your lifestyle for the next 12 months.  We’ve discussed saving in a Roth IRA as a dual-purpose account HERE if that suits you better.

Why do you need so much in cash?

First of all, what exactly is “so much” anyway?  Obviously, “so much” is a relative and personal term – I have one client who “only” has $90,000 in his savings.  That’s on top of the “nearly empty” checking account with $55,000 in it.  Oh, and he spends $60,000 a year  – 100% covered by his pension.  Cash is king.  It allows you to negotiate (doctors have different “cash” prices – as do other businesses) and is easily accessible.  The last thing you want in an emergency is to be floating credit card balances while your insurance company decides how and when they’re going to pay.  Get emergency cash now.  Make a plan and do it.

 

Step 2:  Buy disability insurance beyond what your company provides

 

This is an increased cost, no doubt, but who among us could live on less than 50% of your current income?  I know things around here would get a little tight, for sure!  Remember what I said a few minutes ago about “lifestyle-sustaining” income?  If something tragic happens, should that mean that your kids can’t play soccer anymore?  What about dance class?  If you’re no longer able to work for the rest of your life, do you think you should continue to build up a retirement nest-egg?  Disability coverage only usually pays until age 65!  Then what will you do?

It’s usually best to find your own outside coverage in addition to what your employer provides.  Group coverage will be 100% taxable when you receive it.  Coverage paid for entirely by you is 100% tax-free.

Take this example:

Let’s say you make $80,000 a year as an electrical engineer.  You have group disability of 60% that kicks in after you’ve exhausted all your vacation and sick time.  Sixty-percent of $80,000 is $48,000, right?  Now, let’s subtract 25% for taxes, so that leaves you with $36,000, or roughly $3,000 a month.  You were making $5,000 a month after tax.  Can you today cut two grand out of your household budget?  No?  I didn’t think so.  Everyone’s cost may be different, but let’s say a disability policy that pays you $2,000/mo DI costs $150/mo.  That’s $1,800 a year…is it worth it?  Let’s put it another way:  Your boss says, “Hey Jimmy, we’re going to cut your salary from $80,000 to $78,200 from now on, but if you even get sick or can’t work ‘cause you’re too hurt, you’ll get all your pay until you retire.”  What would you think? I think you’d take that plan.

Go, right now, do not pass go, do not collect $200, go now and acquire an disability application.  Fill said application out and send in the first month’s premium.  Do it now.

 

Step 3:  Buy a gazillion dollars of life insurance.

 

I won’t spend a ton of time on this – we’ve discussed this many times before….but whatever you think you need for life insurance, double it…then double it again.  Too many people buy only a minimal amount of life insurance. If people rely on you for money now or in the near future, go online to a life insurance wholesale shop (if you can’t think of any, in the US, google “buy life insurance”…there are a lot of interesting blogs about life insurance. If you are based in UK, then I recommend reading this blog for latest news and updates related to life insurance.) and purchase a policy.  Twenty or thirty years should do it and the policy had better have lots of zeros (at least 6) and a number bigger than 1 at the beginning.  Does that sound like too much coverage? If you ask any financial planner who’s had a client die–who’s had the unfortunate task of delivering a life insurance check to a widow or survivor–they all know that the survivor nearly always says the same thing: “Is that it?  How am I supposed to make it on that?”

If you want to get technical, read this to figure out how much you’ll need.

I hate that these evil and terribly tragic things happen.  I, in no way shape or form, can justify them or even begin to make sense of them.  In the days and weeks ahead, we’ll hear from the culprits and it still won’t make sense.  What I do know is this:  We cannot ever predict the future.  We can only have a plan on the shelf to execute once tomorrow is here.

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2 Guys & Your Money Episode #6: Top 5 Investment for New Investors

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Just when you thought the show couldn’t get any better, we bring you another awesome episode!

Barbara Friedberg joins our normal roundtable of Carrie Smith and Dominique Brown for “case analysis” on a hypothetical couple with student loans, children and credit card debt.

PK from DQYDJ.NET discusses the Monty Hall problem, and how you can apply it to your life and decision making.

Finally, OG & I top off the program with a look at our Top 5 Investment Options for New Investors. I think you’ll be surprised by our discussion!

<> Open, Welcome back to OG.

<>

<> On the Blog: Emergency Funds, do you need one?

<> PK from DQYDJ.NET: The Money Haul Problem

<> Let’s Give Something Away! Congrats to Lance at MoneyLifeAndMore.com, who won our free copy of Keith Ferrazzi’s Never Eat Alone!

<> Roundtable, Featuring Barbara Friedberg of Barbara Friedberg Personal Finance

The situation:

Mickey & Minnie
Ages – 32 and 28. Mickey makes 45k and Minnie makes 30k. Both are teachers.
They both have 403b retirement plans available.
They have 25k in student loans at an 8% interest rate. They break down this way:
Mickey:
8k loan, $110 per month
$500 loan, $20 per month
Minnie
$10k loan, $140 per month
$200 loan, $40 per month
$6,300 loan, $185 per month
Total monthly debt service: $495/month
They also have $8k in credit card debt:
Victoria Secret – $3k at 22.5%
Visa (get airline miles) – $5k at 18.5%
They have children, ages 3 and 6. The 3 year old is in daycare. They pay $500 per week in daycare expense.
They both have Universal Life insurance policies through a big name company. They pay $300 per month into these plans.
They have 2x salary through the school system in term insurance.
They have disability coverage, but aren’t sure how much.
They have car insurance through a big firm and homeowners through another big firm.
They have Roth IRAs with $3,000 in them. Mickey has three stocks: GE, Disney and Ford. Minnie has the Growth Fund of America through American Funds.
They have $15k in their 403b plans. Mickey has his in the interest income fund. He’s worried about the upcoming fiscal cliff. Minnie has hers in the Vanguard Asset Allocation fund based on her age.
There is no savings for college.
They own will planning software, but have no wills.

<> Top 5 Investment Types for New Investors

(I’m on the road Monday from Michigan, so more detailed show notes will follow on Tuesday)

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How to Split an IRA or 401(k) in a Divorce

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Divorce is ugly.  Except under the most limited circumstances, no one wins in the divorce game.  Then, you add the complexity of money into the equation and it gets downright hideous.  In that emotional time, it’s easy to understand why so many people divide IRAs, 401(k)s, and other retirement accounts sub-optimally.

You can’t just “take the money out and give it to my spouse”  That would be a big mistake.  Let me count the ways:

Let’s assume you own a $250,000 401(k) balance.  The judge rules that you’re required to split that 50/50 with your spouse, so you decide it would be easiest to make a phone call and take the money out.  Ouch.  If you do that, you’ll be hit with a 10 percent early withdrawal penalty (yes you, not your spouse, and only if you’re under 59 1/2) and then the amount you removed is added to your taxable income for the year.  Now, for many reading this blog, you’ve just lost 35-45%.

So how do you give $125,000 to someone?  Oh that’s easy – you gift that to them.  But in your haste, you didn’t do this correctly either. To gift it, you either need to reduce your lifetime exemption by filing a form 706 with your income taxes next April, or pay a gift tax of 50%.

Long story short: “taking it out” could be a massive financial mistake.

Instead, consider asking for a QDRO, or Qualified Domestic Relations Order (pronounced quad-row).  A QDRO put together by a competent attorney and signed off on by the judge makes this transfer a ton easier.

First, it directs your retirement plan company to establish another qualified plan in the name of your spouse.  Then, it directs a tax-free transfer to that newly established account.  No taxes, no penalties.  Easy as pie.

Once you’ve begun working on that, you’ll want to make sure the QDRO says that your soon-to-be ex-spouse can’t make any loans or transfers from the account until it’s been split; or you could just pick a date to make the transfer effective on (retroactive) and put a fixed dollar amount based on that date’s plan balance.  This would protect the new beneficiary from being bamboozled by his or her ex.

Finally, don’t forget about pension plans.  A lot of those can be “QDROed” too.  For example, let’s assume your spouse earned a pension at his job of $4,000 during the 30 years he worked.  He was married to you for 20 of those 30 years – making you the owner of 2/3 of his $4,000 per month.  By putting the QDRO in place before he retires, she can have her own pension plan – quite the deal!

At the end of the day, divorce planning with money is just as important as married couple planning.  If you don’t do it, you’ll regret it.  Take the time to review everything – hire a professional and don’t try to cut corners.  The costs are too severe.


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The Roth IRA–Playing Games with Tax Brackets

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Our normal Friday Blog Post of the Week! segment will return next week.

 

The Roth IRA is a Swiss Army knife for financial success.

In our past wildly exciting posts about the Roth IRA here and here, some of the commenters on these stories have discussed the efficacy of the strategies presented by the Other Guy.

In short: is it worth all the trouble jumping through hoops to get as much money into the Roth IRA as possible?

In a word: indubitably (I’ve wanted to use that word since I heard it in Mary Poppins. 10 points!)

While I’ll agree that if the only upside to these strategies are immediate returns on a few exotic Roth IRA gyrations, you’ll only gain a few extra dollars in your pocket for what seems like a lot of work.

…and I get exhausted switching television channels, so let’s not talk about work.

I prefer easy and exciting.

The Roth IRA has one exciting feature beyond those we’ve listed previously—flexibility later in your planning.

 

The problem with financial planning

 

When I read well-meaning blog posts about retirement or education planning (including my own), the writer always discusses assumptions.

You know what happens when you assume…but what choice do we have?

We’ll have to assume that the tax rate will go up/down/stay level.

We have to project inflation rates.

Finally, we have to decide when we’re going to die. (Well, at least you do…I’ve got my cryogenic tank next to Walt Disney ready to go. I’m gonna live forever.)

Back on point: Roth IRA plans, for those of you uncomfortable with this type of tax shelter, give you no tax break today but offers tax free income down the line. Many (yawn) dissenters say that tax treatment of a Roth IRA is irrelevant. You’ll pay the tax today or tomorrow. It’s all the same.

No it isn’t.

We’re working for maximum tax flexibility, not a few random bucks. Because I can’t predict income tax rates, capital gains rates, or estate tax rates, I’m going to create a financial future that is as flexible as possible, as soon as two current criteria are met:

– I’ve done what I can to maximize deductions today. I know what tax rates are right now, so I’ll take my tax break, thank you.

– I’m not locking up money unnecessarily for down the road when I’m experiencing short term needs for cash.

 

Here’s the Roth IRA Game

 

When you reach retirement, let’s pretend you want to live on $60,000. Tax brackets in America are tiered, meaning that you’ll pay 10 percent on the first dollars you make, until you hit the 15 percent bracket, which is what you’ll pay beginning with the first dollar in that bracket, until you reach the 25 percent bracket…..

Because we don’t know what tax brackets will be in the future, let’s pretend the 25 percent line will be at $50,000.

 

You Have Two Pots of Money

 

Most people have a pre-tax retirement plan. As I mentioned, I like my current pretax deductions, so I’ve maximum funded those. Therefore, I have monster amounts of money (otherwise known as oodles) inside of them. These dollars must come out of the plan and get taxed.

I’ll remove $50,000 per year from this plan. Some of it will be taxed at the 15 percent bracket and some at the 10 percent bracket.

 

Here’s Where the Roth IRA Comes In

 

Finally, I remove $10,000 from my Roth IRA. Now I’m living in the 25 percent tax bracket but the government is taxing us at the top of the 15 percent bracket.

 

Lots of Work for Big Payoffs

 

Now, I’ve avoided a 25 percent tax each year (or whatever my top tax rate would be….) on $10,000, or $2,500 in taxes. Of course, I paid those taxes already, but remember, if I’m worried about the HUGE AMOUNT OF WORK this takes, I’m only investing money after I’ve already secured current tax breaks.

(photo credit: Swiss Army Knife: IK’s World Trip, Flickr; License Plate: Gamma Man, Flickr)

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